Tea with Lily Yew: What is Authentic Peranakan Cuisine?
This dialogue is part of a series of Peranakan events organised by cultural activist Lily Yew, a Penang Nyonya grandmother and Peranakan jewellery collector.
Collaborating with a network of Baba Nyonya personalities, the organisers aim to set the record straight about the many misconceptions surrounding their unique culture and traditions.
When it comes to Peranakan cuisine, distorted facts and fiction have emerged and need to be addressed. The panellists will focus on the factors that constitute authenticity and whether recent food innovations enhance or diminish it. The exchange will surely be heated, especially when opinionated Baba Nyonya personalities—particularly members of the audience—challenge the panellists and each other over recipes, ingredients, methods, and taste. After all, everyone loves Nyonya food but can’t quite agree on what is best—or worst.
Topics will include the evolution of Peranakan cuisine and what defines it, as well as regional similarities and differences. Specialities from Penang, Melaka, the East Coast, and Jawi Peranakan traditions will be discussed, including the various types of nasi lemak, laksa, nasi ulam, and nasi kerabu found across different communities.
The Panellists
Nirmala Devi is a fifth-generation Melaka Chetti who grew up in the heritage enclave of Kampung Budaya Chetti Melaka. She serves as Assistant Secretary of the Melaka Chetti Heritage Association of Malaysia, which produced The Melaka Chetti Kitchen cookbook. With over 30 years of experience in corporate communications, she currently works for a Swiss multinational company.
Allan Wan Lai Yuan, born in Melaka, is the executive chef at Madam Zee, a Peranakan restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, and a cultural performer. Raised in a Peranakan household, Allan was inspired by his grandmother’s cooking and went on to pursue a culinary education. He has worked as a professional chef for many years and has appeared in the media showcasing Peranakan cuisine.
Peter Yeoh is a sixth-generation Penangite whose Peranakan-Hokkien ancestor, a merchant from Sumatera, settled in Penang about 200 years ago. He is an active member of the Persatuan Peranakan Baba-Nyonya Pulau Pinang, the Penang Heritage Trust, and the Penang Players Theatre Group, and is also involved in various social media communities. He serves as an administrator of Penang Walkabouts and contributes to food-focused platforms such as the US-based Hungry Onion and Malaysian Food Whisperers.
He has written food-related articles for publications including Penang Monthly, The Peranakan Magazine (Singapore), Condé Nast Traveler (US), and the South China Morning Post (Hong Kong). He is the author of Simply Penang and co-author of Over Penang.
Peter is also the Penang writer for the Michelin Guide Malaysia and has authored over 40 articles on Michelin-listed personalities and dining establishments across Asia.
